Watching the northern lights is mostly waiting. You stand in the snow, you look up, and you stand some more. Being a little cold for ten minutes is fine. Being cold for three hours ruins the night, even if the sky is putting on a show. The trick is simple and very Norwegian: layers, wool, and nothing made of cotton.
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The cold in 4 numbers
the average winter temperature in Tromsø
the cold end of what to expect on a northern lights night, according to Visit Tromsø
layers, from wool next to your skin to a windproof shell
pairs of wool socks, so buy boots with room for both
The short answer
Wool inside, windproof outside, and nothing made of cotton.
Cotton holds on to sweat and stays wet, and wet is cold. That's why everyone up here wears wool next to the skin. That one swap makes more difference than the most expensive jacket.
Before you buy a big suit for one trip, check your tour. Many operators lend thermal suits, boots, hats and mittens, so you may only need the layers underneath.
Dressing, from the skin out
Three layers, plus the bits that get cold first. It works because you can add or take off a layer when you go from a warm bus to a cold field and back.
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Wool next to your skin
Long-sleeved top and long johnsLayer 1Thermal underwear in wool, top and bottom. Wool socks too. This is the layer that matters most, and the one tour operators don't lend you.
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Something warm in the middle
Wool or fleeceLayer 2A wool or fleece sweater and trousers. On a very cold night, add another one. It's easier to take a layer off than to wish you had one.
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A windproof shell
Jacket and trousersLayer 3A jacket and trousers that keep out wind and wet snow. If your tour lends a thermal suit, this is what it replaces.
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Hands, feet and head
The bits that go firstDon't skip theseWarm boots with room for two pairs of wool socks, mittens or warm gloves, a hat and a scarf. Heat packs inside your gloves and boots help on long nights. Grips or spikes on your boots stop you sliding on icy pavements, and you can buy them in sports shops and at the tourist information.
Bring it or borrow it?
| Bring your own | Often lent by the tour | |
|---|---|---|
| Wool base layers | Yes, always | No |
| Sweater and trousers | Yes | No |
| Thermal suit | Only if your tour doesn't lend one | Often included |
| Boots | If your own are warm enough | Often included |
| Hat and mittens | Bring them anyway for town | Often included |
You can pack light if
- Your tour includes a thermal suit and boots
- You're staying in town between tours
- You've got good wool layers already
Bring the full kit if
- You're heading out on your own, on foot or by bus
- You're staying in a cabin outside town
- You're going to Svalbard or inland in Finnmark
Only booking 2 things? Make it these.
Northern lights tours in Tromsø
Plenty of Tromsø tours include a thermal suit, boots and mittens. Check the listing before you pack.
Find a chase in TromsøNorthern lights tours in Alta
Inland from Alta it can be much colder than on the coast. Another reason to pick a tour that lends you a suit.
Find a chase in AltaTours that lend warm clothes
Northern lights tours in Alta
Smaller groups, colder nights. Check what clothing is included.
Find a chase in AltaWhere to go
Our northern lights pages work out the dark hours for each place this season and tell you where to stand.
All northern lights placesPractical tips
- Put the layers on before you leave the hotel. Changing in a cold minibus is nobody's idea of fun.
- Keep your phone in an inside pocket. Cold drains the battery fast.
- Bring a thermos if your tour doesn't include hot drinks.
- Tight boots make cold feet. Leave room for the second pair of socks.
Keep reading
The coastal route
The Northern Lights Promise
No lights, free trip. It sounds simple, and it nearly is. Here's the small print, in plain English.
What the free voyage really covers
Lofoten
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Red cabins, white peaks, fish drying on racks, and a sky that sometimes turns green. Here's how to fit it into three days.
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Oslo
Northern lights in Oslo?
Sometimes. Rarely. Usually when you're asleep. If the lights are the point of the trip, go north.
Sometimes, but don't count on it
Tromsø
Last day in Tromsø
Out of the room by eleven, ship at half past one in the morning. Here's how to fill the gap without dragging a suitcase round town.
Bags, the terminal and a long winter day
Last checked November 2026. Sources: Visit Tromsø, how to dress, Visit Narvik, how to dress for the Arctic.